Bristol's Backyard Vineyards: Foot-Stomping Grapes in City Gardens
Each quarter of an hour or so, an older diesel-powered railway carriage arrives at a graffiti-covered stop. Close by, a police siren pierces the near-constant road noise. Daily travelers rush by collapsing, ivy-draped fencing panels as rain clouds gather.
It is perhaps the least likely spot you anticipate to find a perfectly formed vineyard. But James Bayliss-Smith has cultivated 40 mature vines sagging with round mauve berries on a sprawling garden plot sandwiched between a row of 1930s houses and a local rail line just north of Bristol town centre.
"I've noticed people hiding heroin or other items in the shrubbery," states the grower. "Yet you just get on with it ... and continue caring for your vines."
Bayliss-Smith, forty-six, a filmmaker who also has a fermented beverage company, is among several local vintner. He has pulled together a loose collective of cultivators who produce vintage from four discreet urban vineyards tucked away in back gardens and allotments across the city. It is too clandestine to possess an official name yet, but the group's messaging chat is called Grape Expectations.
City Wine Gardens Around the World
So far, Bayliss-Smith's plot is the only one listed in the Urban Vineyards Association's forthcoming global directory, which includes more famous city vineyards such as the 1,800 plants on the hillsides of the French capital's renowned Montmartre area and over 3,000 grapevines overlooking and within the Italian city. The Italian-based charitable organization is at the vanguard of a movement re-establishing urban grape cultivation in historic wine-producing nations, but has discovered them all over the world, including urban centers in Japan, South Asia and Uzbekistan.
"Vineyards help urban areas remain more eco-friendly and more diverse. These spaces protect land from development by establishing long-term, yielding agricultural units inside cities," says the association's president.
Like all wines, those created in cities are a result of the earth the vines grow in, the vagaries of the climate and the people who care for the grapes. "Each vintage embodies the beauty, local spirit, environment and heritage of a city," adds the spokesperson.
Unknown Eastern European Grapes
Returning to the city, the grower is in a race against time to gather the vines he cultivated from a plant abandoned in his garden by a Eastern European household. If the precipitation arrives, then the birds may take advantage to feast once more. "This is the mystery Polish variety," he says, as he cleans bruised and mouldy berries from the shimmering bunches. "We don't really know what variety they are, but they are certainly disease-resistant. Unlike noble varieties – Burgundy grapes, white wine grapes and other famous European varieties – you don't have to spray them with pesticides ... this could be a special variety that was bred by the Eastern Bloc."
Group Activities Throughout the City
The other members of the collective are also making the most of bright periods between showers of fall precipitation. At a rooftop garden with views of the city's glistening waterfront, where historic trading ships once bobbed with casks of wine from Europe and the Iberian peninsula, one cultivator is collecting her dark berries from about fifty plants. "I love the aroma of these vines. The scent is so reminiscent," she says, pausing with a container of fruit slung over her shoulder. "It's the scent of Provence when you open the car windows on holiday."
Grant, 52, who has spent over two decades working for humanitarian organizations in conflict zones, unexpectedly took over the vineyard when she moved back to the UK from East Africa with her household in recent years. She experienced an overwhelming duty to look after the grapevines in the yard of their new home. "This plot has already survived multiple proprietors," she explains. "I deeply appreciate the concept of environmental care – of handing this down to future caretakers so they continue producing from this land."
Sloping Gardens and Traditional Production
Nearby, the final two members of the collective are busily laboring on the steep inclines of the local river valley. Jo Scofield has established over one hundred fifty plants situated on ledges in her wild half-acre garden, which descends towards the muddy local waterway. "Visitors frequently express amazement," she notes, gesturing towards the tangled vineyard. "It's astonishing to them they can see rows of vines in a urban neighborhood."
Currently, Scofield, sixty, is harvesting clusters of dusty purple Rondo grapes from lines of plants slung across the hillside with the help of her child, her family member. The conservationist, a documentary producer who has worked on streaming service's nature programming and television network's Gardeners' World, was motivated to cultivate vines after seeing her neighbor's grapevines. She's discovered that hobbyists can produce intriguing, enjoyable traditional vintage, which can command prices of more than £7 a glass in the increasing quantity of wine bars specialising in low-processing wines. "It is incredibly satisfying that you can truly make quality, natural wine," she says. "It is quite fashionable, but in reality it's reviving an traditional method of producing vintage."
"When I tread the fruit, all the wild yeasts come off the surfaces into the liquid," explains the winemaker, ankle deep in a container of tiny stems, pips and red liquid. "That's how wines were made traditionally, but commercial producers add sulphur [dioxide] to eliminate the natural cultures and subsequently incorporate a commercially produced culture."
Difficult Conditions and Inventive Solutions
In the immediate vicinity active senior Bob Reeve, who inspired his neighbor to plant her grapevines, has assembled his friends to pick white wine varieties from the 100 plants he has arranged precisely across multiple levels. The former teacher, a northern English PE teacher who taught at Bristol University developed a passion for wine on annual sporting trips to France. But it is a challenge to grow Chardonnay grapes in the humidity of the valley, with cooling tides moving through from the Bristol Channel. "I aimed to make Burgundian wines in this location, which is somewhat ambitious," admits Reeve with a smile. "This variety is slow-maturing and particularly vulnerable to mildew."
"I wanted to make Burgundian wines here, which is rather ambitious"
The unpredictable Bristol climate is not the sole problem encountered by grape cultivators. Reeve has had to install a fence on